viernes, 1 de agosto de 2008

Cebiche: Apología del Mar

Aquí el link

VIERNES, 01 DE AGOSTO DE 2008
Rosario Díaz Araujo Periodista gastronómica


CUANDO EMPIEZAN los días de calor, y la terraza le roba el olor al mar para traérmelo hasta la cara, me gustaría poder volar. Irme hasta Lima, caminar por sus callecitas, su barrio chino y comer, amar y morir por el ceviche. Dejar a mi corazón escaparse junto al rumor de las olas. Ceviche, cebiche, crujir en la boca llena de mar, pescado, pimientos y cebolla colorada.

El ceviche es la más extranjera y laureada preparación peruana y, además, uno de mis platos mimados. El cebiche es latino y sincero. Y desde hace un tiempo recorre el mundo y se pavonea como el rey de las cartas más cosmopolitas.

Es una preparación que siento cercana. La probé de muy pequeña, porque en mi casa trabajaron siempre mujeres peruanas, y ellas me transmitieron el amor por esta comida. No es ninguna novedad que la cocina peruana esté siendo reconocida, aunque tardíamente, como una de las más refinadas del mundo. A pesar de ser bastante austera, se destaca por el cuidado de la técnica, la esmerada selección de los ingredientes y el amor de sus cocineros.

Lo mejor de este manjar es que cualquiera puede hacerlo. Los ingredientes son muy simples, los podemos encontrar en cualquier alacena y no necesita cocción. Sí señores, es pescado crudo en dados, cebolla, pimiento, ají, limón y mucho amor. El quid de la cuestión consiste en elegir un buen ejemplar, fresco, turgente y de calidad.

Pero para qué explicarlo yo, si puedo citar al gran maestro, al cocinero al que se le adjudican los mejores ceviches del mundo. Según Javier Wong: "El cebiche es un ejercicio de llaneza, precisión, rapidez y frescura normado por diáfanos mandamientos: apretar el limón sin ahorcarlo, de lo contrario rebosa en nuestro plato el jugo de un muerto; retirar la capa roja de la cebolla, no torturarla con agua; utilizar el ajo crudo, colocarlo en su justa medida para que su sabor se exhiba como los tímidos desvelos de una ninfa. El pescado es el lenguado, carne magra, blanca y sutil. El ají debe ser limo, una de las siete variedades autóctonas del Perú (…)."

El cebiche es maravilloso como aperitivo para comerlo en la terraza imaginando, o viendo, romper las olas. Beber una copa de vino blanco y dejar cantar a Joao Gilberto. ¿Acaso se le puede pedir más a esta vida?

49 comentarios:

Luisa Martin dijo...

Hola, me gusta mucho el cebiche y celebro la forma que tienes de plasmarlo. Nunca comento pero esta vez te has lucido.
Un saludo
Luisa

Malen dijo...

Ay Maria! Sin palabras otra vez! Qué bello!! Como dijo Luisa, te has lucido con este homenaje! Un besote grande

tolenti dijo...

Que rico! que lindo! que magico!! Ya mismo le digo al Oso que lo haga!

Carolina dijo...

Que bien lo describiste...sinceramente jamás lo probe, pero lo escribiste de una forma que me gustaría probarlo alguna vez ! Si llego a ir algun día para allá te voy a visitar para que me lo cocines ! ; ) O al menos te voy a pedir que me recomiendes algún lugar...nos estamos leyendo, beso!

Anónimo dijo...

Tu comentario tan vivido del cebiche ha hecho que salten a mi memoria los inolvidables momentos junto a mis amigos peruanos, compartiendo un tazon de cebiche que como vos dices realmente un manjar. Gracias por la receta y voy a tratar de que al hacerla el cebiche me salga como, segun el autor que citas, debe ser. Que tipo de pescado es el indicado? Ademas yo pensaba que habia que dejarlo mas tiempo en maceracion. Un beso grande y gracias, Elbita

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Hola Luisa: Me ponen muy contenta tus comentarios. Muchas gracias!!

Malenina: Merci! Besos

Tolenti: Es espectacular, decile que te lo haga ya vas a ver que nunca mas te olvidas.

Carolina: Por supuesto, si venis prometo ceviche en la terraza. Si esta spor Lima alguna vez, en todos lados, pero literalmente, hasta en la calle es increible!

Ay Elbi, tal cual, el ceviche es un plato para amigos, para disfrutar.
el tema del pecado es asi: si es fresco se hace y se sirve, si es congelado o de fuente desconocida dejar macerar pero con 15 minutos esta perfecto.
Mmmmmmmmmm Besos

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Estimada compi,

es cierto que el cebiche es un mánifico aperitivo que todos los europeos deberíamos probar alguna vez.. Ya que he confirmado que pocos de aquí lo conocen.

Me parece un plato fresco y reconfortante, espectacular para el verano y que me recuerda tanto por gusto como por ingredientes al gazpacho andaluz..

El que probé yo, era Ecuatoriano, no sé si es el mismo o no.. pero te diré que me sorprendió agradablemente, y como comentario te diré que le añadieron palomitas de maiz.. las cuales suelen utilizar allí en muchas comidas.. y no sólo como hacemos aqui (en el cine)..

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